Cycle Touring Cambodia

1. Cycle Touring Cambodia

Cycling in Cambodia is awe-inspiring. This nation has endured more than its fair share of hardships. The warmth of the people is a testament to the resilience and beauty of the Khmer people.
What awaited us over the border was a journey through friendly villages with enthusiastic children ready to greet us along the way. As always, as cycle tourists, we were blessed to experience this country up close.
In this article, I recount our cycling experience in Cambodia. We hope it inspires your next adventure and answers some of your burning questions.

2. Our expectations of Cambodia

No matter where we go, we always carry our expectations across the border. Sometimes, we’re right, but mostly, we find we had preconceptions that were plain wrong.
We knew little about Cambodia’s history. Of course, we knew about the stunning temples, particularly Angkor Wat, which we planned to visit. We’d read about the tragic legacy of the Khmer Rouge regime. This is a dark chapter in Cambodia’s history, with genocide wiping out almost 30% of the population in recent living memory. There’s no doubt that everyone in Cambodia has some experience with this horrifying time. It left us wondering about the country’s recovery.
We anticipated a land still grappling with the aftermath of the past and its effects on development, with potential challenges related to poverty and infrastructure. Having spent three months cycling through Vietnam, where we felt incredibly safe, we couldn’t help but feel a little nervous as we approached the Cambodian border, uncertain of what awaited us on the other side.
However, as we soon discovered, our apprehensions were largely unfounded, and Cambodia revealed itself to be a country of warmth, resilience, and beauty that defied our initial expectations.

3. Entering Bavet, Cambodia from Mộc Bài, Vietnam

We crossed the border from Mộc Bài (Vietnam) to Bavet (Cambodia) border crossing. As with any border crossing, we were a little nervous. You never know how difficult or easy a border crossing will be. Would we have our belongings checked in full like we did crossing into China? Or would it be a breeze? You just don’t know until you get there. Plus, we always find border towns can be a little uncomfortable.
Our experience at the Mộc Bài Bavet border crossing was smooth and hassle-free. The bordering towns were nice, and we felt very safe there.
The border officials were efficient and friendly, making the process of entering Cambodia welcoming and comfortable. No one checked our gear or kit; it was just a bit of paperwork that took no more than an hour.
Top tip: We got to the border super early, about 7 a.m., so if you’re crossing there and want the same experience, it might be worth arriving early.

4. First impressions of Cambodia

Our first impression of Cambodia was marked by the friendliness of the locals. And, weirdly, the heat! We’d spent quite a lot of time cycling along the coast in Vietnam, so moving inland was quite a shock to the system. It was so hot in Cambodia.
In comparison to Vietnam and Laos, Cambodia’s roads were much quieter, with fewer trucks and more cars. We did not expect to see so many cars in place of scooters. It was quite an adaption after months cycling amongst the scooters. I went from being afraid of scooters to being fearful of cycling next to cars, even though I was from the UK, and I am more used to cycling on the road next to cars.
Cambodia is one of the friendliest countries we’ve visited on the entire trip.

5. All about the money

To begin with, the currency situation was confusing. Managing money in Cambodia can be a unique experience for travelers, as both the Cambodian Riel (KHR) and US dollars (USD) are widely accepted throughout the country.
Everything was priced in both Riel and US dollars, and prices were generally about 20% higher than in Vietnam. But, we got super comfortable with it and were soon able to mix currencies, paying half in USD and half in KHR. It quickly became second nature.
Before entering Cambodia, it may be difficult or even impossible to obtain Riel. Therefore, we recommend bringing US dollars with you. To be honest, this is a good travel trip in general where ever you’re going, you can always find someone to exchange dollars.
ATMs in Cambodia typically offer the option to withdraw either USD or Riel. We suggest withdrawing USD, although be aware that most ATMs dispense $100 bills, which can be difficult to break if you’re not in a large town or city. There is a small fee of around $5 for each cash withdrawal.
Most shops, hotels, and other businesses will provide prices in USD, but they will also accept Riel. During our visit, £1 was equivalent to 5,000 Riel, and $1 (USD) was equivalent to 4,000 Riel, which made converting prices somewhat more manageable. You can mix currencies to pay, and you don’t need to worry about the exchange rate in the shops. The exchange rate was in line with the rates found online, and we rarely encountered unfair exchange rates at individual establishments.
Cambodian people are generally open, honest, and warm, which made our transactions stress-free and straightforward.
When paying in USD, use only new, crisp notes. Torn or crumpled bills, even from a Cambodian ATM, will not be accepted. If you pay in dollars, you often receive Riel as change.

6. How safe did it feel to cycle through Cambodia to us?

Cycling through Cambodia is a fantastic experience. You will be a great attraction for the locals who love tourists.
We found that most of the roads were in excellent condition, with hardly any potholes.
One of the key features that made cycling through Cambodia enjoyable and safe was the presence of wide shoulders along nearly all the roads. These shoulders provided ample space for cyclists and motorbikes, making it easier for us to navigate the roads alongside other vehicles. Outside of Phnom Penh, the roads were also relatively quiet, which further contributed to a sense of safety and ease while cycling.
However, it’s important to note that the situation in Phnom Penh was quite different. The main road through the city was chaotic, with traffic backed up for miles and moving slowly. But, what do you expect in a major city?

7. How safe is Cambodia generally?

During our time in Cambodia, we felt very safe while cycling and traveling. The people we encountered were generally warm and welcoming, and we rarely had to deal with the typical tourist trap hassles common in other parts of Asia…well, maybe not entirely. The most persistent annoyance came from tuk-tuk drivers looking for work, but they usually took it well when we declined their services.
In Siem Reap, one TukTuk driver offered us a ride, but we declined. He said, “What about later?” We laughed, and he knew the joke because you do get asked a lot. Then his friend down the road—and within earshot—asked, ‘What about now?’ Everyone has a good sense of humor.
The only thing that was a bit alarming to us was child beggars who hang around the shops in big cities like Siem Reap. It’s not a unique sight to us, but it’s never very nice to witness. As is typical, there are signs asking tourists not to give the children money as it encourages them into a life of begging, so we didn’t give them any money. Security guards will move the children on if they see them begging.
We mainly traveled on the main road between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, so our experience may not be representative of the entire country. However, based on our journey, we believe that other parts of Cambodia would be just as safe and friendly for cyclists.
One crucial aspect to be aware of in Cambodia is the presence of landmines and unexploded ordnance left behind from the Vietnam War. These hazards make venturing off the main road, particularly in the western part of the country, very unsafe. Stick to well-traveled routes and exercise caution when exploring more remote areas.

8. The locals

Cambodians are known for their warmth and hospitality, which we experienced firsthand during our journey. English is widely spoken in tourist areas, making communication easy for travelers. However, learning a few basic phrases in Khmer can go a long way in connecting with locals and showing your respect for their culture.
Cambodians are eager to practice their English with foreigners and love seeing tourists exploring their country. As you cycle through villages and cities, expect to be greeted with friendly ‘hellos’ frequently. We said hello more times in Cambodia than ever before. Sometimes, we couldn’t even see who shouted it, but if we hear a young voice, we always make sure to shout a friendly “hello!” back.
Something quite unlike most countries is that in Cambodia, even the city folk are overjoyed to greet tourists; in Siem Reap, a group of locals approached us and placed their baby into Zoe’s arms before asking for a selfie.
The warm reception from locals often left us feeling amazed and welcomed. We would return to Cambodia in a heartbeat.

9. All things food

Cambodian cuisine offers a delightful mix of flavors and textures that will leave your taste buds wanting more. Traditional dishes like Fish Amok, a fragrant fish curry, and Lok Lak, a delicious stir-fried beef dish, are must-tries when visiting the country.
Western food and brands are also widely available in Cambodia, but be prepared to pay a premium for these options. Import taxes are high, and indulging in air-conditioned restaurants with Western menus can quickly eat into a frugal traveler’s budget.
We found we were naturally drawn to such places, but over time, we developed our eye to see the real places to eat well and for a good price.
Food hygiene can be an issue in Cambodia for our Western bellies, as in many parts of Asia. Meat is often left outside or displayed in cases despite the scorching temperatures throughout the day. To minimize the risk of travel sickness, we avoided street food and chose cafes and restaurants where a lot of people were eating and/or had positive reviews on Google.
When it comes to staying hydrated, try to avoid purchasing the cheapest bottled water available. Some locals have warned against it, suggesting the quality may be questionable. Until we knew this, we drank a lot of cheap water, and we were fine, but we are sharing what we learned. Instead, opt for recognized national or international water brands to feel confident you’re consuming safe and clean water because you will need a lot of it.

10. Accommodation

Prices for accommodation in Cambodia are generally quite affordable. Basic rooms in guesthouses can start from as low as $9 per night, while mid-range hotels typically range from $17 to $20 per night.
In Cambodia, we used Agoda and Booking.com. However, we often relied on Google Maps. We booked everything at the last minute except stays in major cities when we wanted to chill for a few more days.

11. Tourist attractions

Cambodia is a country rich in history and culture, offering some wonderful tourist attractions. To be honest, when we arrived, we had no idea of the scale of tourism in Cambodia. Of course, we knew about Angkor Wat, undoubtedly the most famous site, but there’s so much more to see.

12. The temples

Definitely visit Angkor Wat, but know that your ticket there lets you into as many as 50 other temples. You can see the temples over one day or three. We opted for one day and did the temple tour via TukTuk. In one day, we comfortably managed to see six temples, including one at sunset.
Our TukTuk driver, Sambath, was an absolute diamond. We were so glad we met him. He drove us around the six temples and knew which ones to visit and which were quite similar so we could get the most out of the experience. Sambath spoke good English and had local knowledge to share. This was great for us as we were only seeing six temples; Sambath could fill in the gaps a bit. He also provided essentials like cold water and coke and was insistent that we take a cold bottle to every temple.
If you need his details, they’re below! Definitely give him a call; you won’t regret it.

13. Genocide museum

For those interested in Cambodia’s history, the Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh provides an eye-opening experience. The audio tour is incredibly informative and incredibly well done. In our experience, audio tours are hit and miss-, but this one is a must-visit.
Brace for a heavy and emotional visit. I had to really refrain from crying in there; I welled up hearing the harrowing stories.

14. National museum

The National Museum in Siem Reap offers insights into the country’s history and culture. It is pretty good, and we’re glad we went, although the $10 audio guide is not worth the additional expense.
If you are doing this museum, it would be a little better to do it before the temples, but we did it after.

15. The weather and its impact on cycling in Cambodia

Cambodia’s climate is a challenge for cycle tourists. The dry season runs from November to April and the wet season from May to October.
We visited in April and made it a point to start our days early, waking up at 5:30 am to hit the road by 6:30 am or 7 am. This allowed us to ride during the coolest part of the day and avoid the intense mid-day heat, which frequently reached 37-38°C. According to Google, the temperature could feel as high as 42-44°C. We aimed to finish our rides by 1:00 pm, as cycling becomes increasingly difficult as the temperature surpasses your core body temperature.
During our two-week stay, we experienced only one rainstorm, which resulted in an impressive display of thunder and lightning. The storm lasted about five hours. If you plan on cycling in Cambodia during the wet season, be prepared for sudden downpours and potentially challenging road conditions. On the day of the storm, we booked another night in our hotel to avoid it.

16. Cycling in Cambodia

Our journey through Cambodia was mostly flat, making it enjoyable and relatively easy for cyclists of all levels. Following the main road allowed us to travel efficiently while still experiencing the charm of small villages and the warm hospitality of the locals. Because people live on the side of the roads and have shops and restaurants even on the more direct routes, you can enjoy the village-esque charm.
One of the challenges we faced while cycling in Cambodia was the persistent headwinds, blowing east to west. These winds often made riding more difficult and slow, especially when combined with the high temperatures.
The heat in Cambodia can be extreme, so it’s important to plan your rides accordingly. The lack of shade along the main roads means that taking breaks to cool down and hydrate is essential. As the day progresses, the heat intensifies, making it harder to cover long distances.
We tended to ride a fairly consistent 20 or 30 miles in those first two to three hours, and then stopped every ten miles or every one hour or so to drink a lot of water. If you want an amazing pick-me-up drink, go for an Aquarius, but be warned, there’s something in that drink; it’s too good! We wanted something different to water that wasn’t coke so tried an Aquarius since it had vitamins in it which we felt were getting depleted from all the sweating. It tasted really amazing.
Carrying water on your cycling journey can be a challenge in Cambodia due to the high ambient temperature. A bottle of water can warm up to 30+ degrees Celsius within minutes, making it crucial to find ways to keep your water supply cool. Insulated water bottles or hydration packs can help with this issue.

17. Bikes and the availability of components

In major cities like Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, you’ll find bike shops that sell and repair a variety of components. These shops may carry well-known Western cycling brands, but you should expect to pay a premium for these parts.
In rural areas, finding specific parts for high-end bikes will be much more challenging. Bike shops may be sparse, and the selection of components may be limited. We carry all essential spare parts and tools. This might include spare tubes, a puncture repair kit, a multi-tool, chain lube, brake pads, and any other components specific to your bike that may be hard to find.

18. Camping

Based on our experience, we didn’t feel the need to camp, as hotels were readily available along our route at affordable prices.
The temperature and humidity in Cambodia can make camping quite uncomfortable, especially during the wet season. Moreover, the presence of landmines and unexploded bombs in certain areas of the country can pose a significant risk when camping, so it’s essential to be aware of the local situation and avoid camping in potentially dangerous areas.
Additionally, Cambodia is a high-risk country for malaria, and it’s recommended to avoid being outdoors during sunrise and sunset, particularly in rural areas. If you are going to camp, think about insect protection, malaria tablets, mosquito nets, and repellents.
Finding camping gas canisters can be challenging in Cambodia, so if you’re planning to cook your own meals while camping, you might need petrol. This is widely available from roadside vendors and generally in place.
Crossing the border from Poi Pet, Cambodia to Ban Klong Luk Border, Thailand
Our experience crossing the border from Poi Pet, Cambodia to Ban Klong Luk Border, Thailand was surprisingly smooth and hassle-free although things did take a while Thailand side, but that’s another blog.
While waiting in line, having a pen handy is helpful, as you’ll likely need to fill out some forms.

19. Our favourite parts of Cambodia

Our time in Cambodia was filled with memorable experiences, but our absolute favorite part was our stay in Siem Reap. It truly felt like a holiday, a welcome break from our cycling journey. The city perfectly blended cultural richness, friendly locals, and lively entertainment.
The ancient temples of Angkor Wat were awe-inspiring and left a lasting impression. Our tuk-tuk driver was knowledgeable about the temples and made the experience even more enjoyable with his warm personality. It felt like we were exploring Siem Reap with a friend, honestly! We were committed to him for the entire trip and he was so grateful for the work, always on time and always with a smile.
Siem Reap’s hospitality was exceptional, and our hotel was outside of the hustle and bustle, but only a short TukTuk to Pub Street, which truly stands out in our minds. We had a lot of fun there. The bustling area was filled with delicious food, lively music, and a great mix of locals and travelers, making it the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploring.
If you end up in Red Piano, make sure you grab a tomb raider cocktail!
The warmth and kindness of the Khmer people played a significant role in making our time in Cambodia so special. Their genuine hospitality and eagerness to share their culture left a lasting impact on our hearts.
Our least favourite bits of Cambodia

To be honest, finding something we didn’t love about Cambodia is hard. I guess our only difficulty was finding decent food options. Sometimes the options were only street food or snacks like crisps, especially in more rural areas. This wasn’t a major issue at all, but it did require some adaptability and creativity with our meal choices. On a couple days we just ate tinned fish on the side of the road.

20. Summary of Cambodia

Our journey through Cambodia was filled with pleasant surprises and memorable experiences. With low expectations going in, we were delighted to find that Cambodia quickly became one of our favorite countries. The laid-back atmosphere, friendly people, and rich culture made a lasting impression on us.
Siem Reap stood out as our favorite town of the entire journey. We highly recommend visiting Cambodia for anyone considering a trip to Asia. It’s a country we would undoubtedly love to visit again and explore further. So, whether you’re a cycle tourist or a traveler seeking new adventures, Cambodia is a destination you won’t want to miss.