Ho Chi Minh City, still affectionately known as Saigon, is a metropolis that never sleeps. It is a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and smells—a place where sleek skyscrapers tower over ancient pagodas and French colonial architecture. For many travelers, the sheer scale and legendary traffic of Saigon can be overwhelming. Traditional cycling can be exhausting in the Southern heat, while tour buses miss the intimacy of the city's "Hem" (alleyway) culture.